Between myself and Kat of Measure Twice Kat Once we’ve been on quite a trouser spree recently. Kat is starting her graduate job and I’m enjoying finding my sense of style so we decided to make some trousers together!
Vicky: Kat suggested the Tyyni trousers from Named Clothing. What drew us to the pattern was the shaping waist darts, the pockets and the nice detail of the side vents. This made them a little different to what else we’d seen out there. They also seemed fairly ideal for our pear-portions (puns make me happy).
Kat: To me, the Tyyni trousers seemed like a very classic work trouser, and so I had hoped to make a pair which fitted both my hips and waist – something which I have had difficulty finding in the past.
Size Selection/ Alteration
Vicky: My measurements are currently B32.4” W28” H39” which put me in the UK size 10. I tend to pick off finished measurements rather than size charts in general. I didn’t make any adjustments because there wasn’t any info available on the rise, where I usually make my trouser adjustments. The pattern does have handy marks about where the hip and knee are too.
Kat: My measurements are B33”, W25”, H37”. My hip measurement was closer to a 10 and waist closer to a 6, but after speaking to Sharlene (she made a gorgeous jacquard pair and matching blazer – my semi-inspiration) decided to cut a UK 6 due to the slight stretch of the material. I took 2 inches off the length as the pattern is drafted for someone who is 5’6”.
Vicky: Both of us were, to a large extent treating this as a wearable toile knowing that these would fit us way better than ready to wear but would still require some edits. Plus, we also needed to learn some construction techniques!
Fabric Selection
Vicky: This is always one of my favourite parts. The pattern calls for a stretch woven with 5-10% stretch. This was a totally new field for me but I knew Sarah at Likesewamazing had some gorgeous paisley designed deadstock in. I was inspired for these trousers after a chat with Stacie (Notions of a Dressmaker) who’d made the SOI Ultimate Trousers. Pockets wise I used some Grey Bamboo Tencel Twill I had leftover from previous projects because it is dreamily soft.
Kat: I struggled to find a nice stretch woven for ages, but when I was buying shirt material for some shirts I spotted this Burgundy stretch cotton suiting fabric from Croftmill, which was quite a steal at £6 a metre, so figured it would do for a wearable toile. I had some Burgandy Rayon leftover from my Sudley so used that for the pockets, which maybe clashes a bit but hopefully won’t be seen!
Construction
We constructed the lions share of these on a zoom call together. We used a regular stitch i.e. not zig zag or stretch for the seams and a sharp needle. We were a little unclear on if this was correct but it seems to have worked.
Vicky: I was slightly behind on construction compared to Kat as she’d already cut hers out. I added the pintucks as I enjoyed the overall aesthetic. I had to unpick the ones on the back as I’d used the wrong notch at the top but fortunately I’d used a longer stitch length!
After Kat had forged ahead and we looked at the instructions we used the method we were already familiar with to insert the inseam pockets. I’m not great at left and right so my fly is actually on backwards, I followed the instructions for inserting the fly mirrored.
Kat: This was my first zip fly as when I’ve previously made trousers I’ve done the button fly, Vicky has a bit more experience from making her Dawns. I’d tried my trousers on at this point and identified I needed to take in about 4cm at the waist which I did using the back seam, starting from level with the bottom of the darts and grading up.
Vicky: We both found the fly insertion instructions to be tricky. I would recommend reading instructions for another pair with a fly too to really help understand the method. Once the fly had been inserted I tried mine on. The fit in the waist is great but in the hips they’re too large, I think I’ll size down to an 8 in the hips if I make them again.
Kat: Attaching the waistband was a challenge, I definitely had to put these in the naughty corner at least once. I was so confused by the instructions and my zip not being neatly sewn didn’t help. After cutting off the section it says to remove for the one side and about 4cm off the waistband as this was the amount removed from the back seam, I just couldn’t get the waistband to fit on. I ended up sewing on an extra section so it would work. This is possibly because my zip wasn’t sewn close enough, but to be honest I was very confused and frustrated at this point.
Vicky: having been slightly behind Kat I knew that this insertion was going to be a challenge. I sat down and had a cuppa first. My advice for construction is:
- For the fly overlap, baste this prior to attempting waistband construction
- Remember you are sewing the short sides of the waistband to the fly first.
- Don’t cut any of the seam allowance before you’re 99% certain the waistband is on correctly.
Kat: The final few steps were comparatively easy and I enjoyed the construction of the vents at the bottom.
Vicky: My final tip for the fly is chalk on where you’re going to topstitch or you could end up incredibly wonky!
Verdict
This is definitely an intermediate sew and these are more challenging than the Chandlers or the Pietras. If you can find a sew along definitely do use one, but during Kat’s waistband meltdown she couldn’t find one.
Vicky: My fit requires a few more tweaks. I need to do a crotch to waist analysis and probably take them in to the 8 at the hips. These trousers are destined for my sister to see if they fit her. It’s not a priority but I would like to make another pair.
Kat: I actually really like the fit and style of these, but my zip was a massive fail. I am tempted to try again so it is a neater finish as think these could be great for the office. Hopefully no one will be staring at my crotch too much! My pockets stick out a bit, which may be due to not following instructions, or just down to my hip to waist ratio! Overall, a really nice pair of trousers which I’d like to attempt again and hopefully do a bit better!
Likes
- The different style compared to what else is available
- The pattern markings showing the knees and hips
- Leg Vents!
- Pockets
Could be better
- Complicated to follow instructions
- Lack of information on the rise
Seams Like Vicky 